Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Tuesday, 18 August 2009

We’ve planned a whole lot for our final event on Friday. Things are going really smoothly. We have about 6 confirmed NGO representatives coming, we are visiting the municipality of La Tinguiña tomorrow to invite them personally as well as some from Ica proper, the electronics are almost all sorted out, and we’ve even posted 10 signs all over the town in key locations. Four of our 10ish students have small flyers to pass out and it looks like we even have permission to use a local tienda to host the event. The kids agreed to each bring a piece of wood, a bucket of water, and some sugar so that we can make coffee for the attending audience.

Everything’s ready. Except for the kids’ movies. Uh oh.

So today we have dedicated most of our hours to helping to kids edit by commenting on their order, their aesthetic eyes as well as ways to make their movies really demonstrate their message. We’ve heard that Peruvians aren’t really open to critique, but they seem to be taking it well.

At 6:00 am, Señor Lopez is tearing down the fence to re-do it with fresh Cincha reeds.

At 7:00am, a cocoon is shed.

At 7:30am, tea is boiled and quaker is already on the table. Both go cold.

At 8:00am, we are half sleeping and half reviewing the raw footage that Pamela has to work with.

At 8:30am, we are pulling out our hair, but partially still inside the warmth of our beds.

At 8:55am, we are packing our breakfasts to go in plastic bottles and tapas.

We start early at 9am with Pamela who is doingher own video in her own house with her own editing program called Pinnacle. Her father sometimes takes pictures and photos at birthday parties which she then puts together for a digital scrap book. At some point she demonstrated one of her projects for us. She has to have a mountain of patience to stare at fifteen year olds in dresses throwing on smiles all day long for cameras during their party. I definitely could not do it.

Pamela and Yubi have put together something that they think encompasses their message. We notice that they have the takes they did during the scavenger hunt as well as some footage from a few days after the earthquake that her dad took. Their message is that there has been a lot of help from NGOs and partially from the government, but that more is needed. They set out to make contrasts between those who have received aid and those who have not. We suggest that since they have an ideal group (one with aid and one without out), they might be able to demonstrate this message better by doing a tour and explanation of their respective living situations. Pamela tells us that she doesn’t want to be another person asking for help because there is still needs everywhere in the South, but this sparks a new idea for everyone. Since they can get footage of their house, their community, and a bit of pictures to represent the Ica department, they will be able to demonstrate that the video that they’ve made is just a small part of a much, much larger picture. Their movie will be a just one case study of thousands in the affected departmento. Cool. We will meet back with you at 4pm to do that.

We wish her good luck with her movie and meet with Malú to ask about her speakers. Returning things to Ica will be a large pain in taxi or by bike so we are trying to avoid it all together. They work just fine. Check. Now just gotta ask the dueño.

Then we clean bicycles all day. Every inch so that we can sell them back to Peru. The water is dirty, the rags are retired, and our fingers ache from the sparkling goodness of our well-used transports. The mountains in the background, under the sun, seem extra sharp today. Like sharp cheddar.

At 4pm, we check in with Pamela again at Yubi’s house. Yubi gets ready to do her takes, but by the time she is on the edge of beginning to record in groups, her mother gives the stern orders to finish her essay. You can play tomorrow, little one. So mostly what gets done here is a recap of the morning for Yubi and even more planning. Hopefully the drafting and redrafting of this documentary of theirs will really show the work and time they’ve been putting in for their final showing.

Add in a trip to the store and more bike cleaning (basta, ¡ya están!) before our next meeting at 6:30 with Carlos and Alison. We pass by people flying kites.. okay, trying to fly kites, on our way over. It’s a beautiful sunset today.

Carlos and Alison aren’t there yet, but Brayahan stomps over with his camera as well as Elaine’s camera. He’s says, “I wanna make a movie.” Wow. So we wait for Alison, Carlos, and Adam to get there before we hike back to the house. He is a little bit shy with his stuff, more willing to just string videos together rather than plan things out or give the movie intention. We try to prod him along to stick with his original message (Hey community! Be united!) as well as to use his takes to his advantage since he has lots of different places during the second anniversary.

Alison and Carlos storm into the room, accompanied by Adam. It’s a little cramped, people are a little confused about what’s going on, Brooke’s tongue is stuck in her mouth, and computers are sucking up electricity like it’s no one’s business. There are three laptops going at once, and somehow we don’t get a single video finished. It’s okay though.

Dinner time! Delicious “send off soup seconds.” Basil, bean, carrot, meat soupy stuff accompanied by a new type of ahí as well as more beans and more rice from the kitchen of plenty. Ka-bing!

Afterwards, we play around with the kids’ videos, getting ready for our gran exposición on Friday. Cross your fingers and toes.


Monday, 17 August 2009

Today is the big day to finally transfer the difficult art of French toast to the people here who all know how to cook so much more really well without recipes for much more complex things. They must think so poorly of foreigners. Our work with NGOs is put on hold for the time being and we put ourselves in the mindset of thanking some people who have been so kind to us and get to know them better.

Wake up at 6am to start with the pie crusts and the French toast. We make a less-sugar, with apples, cinnamon and oatmeal drink to accompany our breakfast. Chopped fruit and then pear yogurt on top. Delic.

Brooke kills her first mammal today. With her bare hands. When she gets back home, Bonzi’s next. Watch out! (Joking, joking!)

Now its time to prepare cuy (guinea pig) for the lunch at the house. We now have 2 simultaneous lunch invites for amazingly delicious food, but we´ll make it happen. We each kill 1 guinea pig. Well, first you have to catch it crawling around the pen. The mom worries we won´t know how to snap a neck here and there. She is really into speedy cooking, and snapping animals´ necks - something she said her grandma beat into her. Then we tried our hand at snapping a neck. The rodents kick and squirm, then go limp. And they have little rat-like teeth in front. Every time it was “our” turn to kill a cuy, mom grabs the thing from our hands and says, “ no no no. not like that, like this!” At least 3 cuyes go to cuy heaven like this. In the midst, a chicken is killed as well. We’re not sure if the grandma confused it with a cuy or if today is just killing-animals-day.

The grandma jokes and plays with the dead guinea pigs. She makes them dance and tells us that they will haunt us in our dreams. We got some decent footage. Then she goes after the cat and dogs pretending they are next. We got a decent picture.

Then the guinea pigs´ hair must be pulled out. You dip them straight into a boiling pot of water while holding the critters by their hind legs. Your fingers burn trying to take the hair off, and before you know it, you’re basically wearing a sweater of cuy. Then the little guys are cut open and their insides are taken out. The teeth get broken off with the blunt side of the knife, and basically all parts are kept for frying minus the intestines. Then the meat is cut into three pieces – the head, and two sides. Each piece is smothered in garlic and some onion and aji-no-moto and salt and pepper and then fried in bastante oil.

The meat is served with rice and potatoes and they have also made a Minestra soup to go with it. Minestra is a type of bean here. And the soup is made with a Basil base and corn and carrots and potatoes and parsley and large amount of spices. It is green.

Round two of our cooking is the planned lunch in the house of some friends. We come by with enough for 25. We make it. Its exciting. Turns out they are making a huge pot of Carapulcra con su sopa seca, which is much more difficult and time consuming than anything we’ve made today for our families.

Somehow we end up spending 2 hours chatting after and during eating our first lunch which was French toast and its fixings as well as carapulcra and sopa seca – 2 servings each. Then off to our family to enjoy our first cuy meal. We didn’t have to try. The meat is a bit skinny but its delicious. The best part is it cooked very much as is, so you eat the skin off the nails and eat the brain, the eyes. At the dinner table, half of us get heads and everyone gets half a cuy, fingernails and all. Unlike chicken legs, the little meaty pieces still have a bit of hair on them that tickles a bit as you munch away.

Lunch is great, and we are stuffed – more than any other day in Peru. We enjoy an open-faced pie with an excellent base made by Brooke via a recipe they had in the house and bananas and strawberries. She also put together a peach and apple pie that must be good but was left untouched after lunch in the house of our friends. Hopefully they enjoy it.

From there we have a meeting with a couple students to help them edit their videos. They are into fooling around with music more than editing so we don´t push them too hard and they don´t get much done. We rescheduled for tomorrow morning so we hope to get it done then.

These girls, along with two other participants accompanied us to poster the three neighborhoods directly around us. 10 posters. And Brooke made some nice ads for the class that can be handed out. This takes another 2 hours.

How does anything get done around here?

Speaking of which, upon returning home our family demands we eat dinner with them – eating and eating all day long.


Sunday, 16 August 2009

Monday, tomorrowish, we have set aside as the day we cook “American Food” for a handful of people we´ve gotten to know quite well during our time here. We figure this is a good opportunity to buy enough to cook for our family as well. French toast is the ironic choice of American food. We thought about adding crepes to the mix but threw that plan out when Juan went on a three minute explanation of how they make this great thing here and its made like a thin cake and they fry it then put fruits and sugar…

We also promised some fruit pies, and happen to really want to make some oatmeal cookies.

So the after breakfast hours were spent making the calculations for ingredients and creating a shopping list. Unfortunately we don´t know how to make pie crust so we had to look that up upon arrival in Ica. French toast is easy – Adam can do that. Pie crust is few ingredients, but cookies we have no real idea.

We run around for a couple hours in Ica and return with 1.5 kilos of strawberries, 25 bananas, 1 kilo of peaches, three 1 liter bottles of yogurt, .5 a kilo of limes, a lot of butter, 1.5 kilos of flour, molasses instead of syrup, a small pineapple, 2 kilos of apples.

That night we try our hand at cookie making. First ones taste like bread, then a bit like banana bread, then a sugar cookie and then we gave up – for a little while. Juan helped us out and he is a much more sophisticated eater than we are. He would tell us how badly we had made it, Brooke would try and guess how to change it to make it be more representative of a cookie, and Adam happily took advantage of the steady supply of cookies with unique tastes.

We got done late at night and bed.


15 Saturday August, 2009

For some reason, I can't get back to bed. Usually you just step outside to the bathroom, freeze while you're out in the wide open air (sheltered baño), and wipe your feet off at the door before crawling back into your appropriate heating “cacoon.” Don't get me wrong, this takes a lot of mental momentum to get the ball rolling from warm horizontal to cold vertical bodies. Because of the customs of downing a lot of hot-before-bed drinks, we are also accustomed to the urge to rise from a comfortable bed around 3 or 4 am. At first, the urge would beckon and our bodies would respond immediately. You are suddenly awake and have to contemplate the possibility of holding it until morning instead of making the intense weather shift now. But you ask your bladder who retorts with a little squeeze that makes you hop right out from between the covers. Now, our bodies know better than to bother us with something so unimportant, and we get to linger in the warmth uninterrupted until the morning.

But at 5:15, a shout comes through the hallway: “AGUA!” Which jolts us up and out. However, the normally intense water process of filling all the barrels around the house is calm this morning. It's here early so there's no rush to Juan isn't here so we don't have the skills or the knowledge to hook up the pump and pipes to the construction site downstream and into what appears to be a swimming pool. So Abuela just stands around with a hose, filling up haras that I didn't even know existed before today.

We jogged real quick. Some hills. Some flats. Some sprints. Right up until we had to be at the casita waiting for students to arrive with sleepy eyes. Originallly we had planned on Carlos, Pamela, Malu, Cecilia, and Elaine. Sin embargo Carlos was unable to get out of his job grading papers at the university, and Pamela had a mysterious presentation to take care of. So it ended up being just three students and us on our way in colectivo towards Ica. Elaine is 12, Cecilia is 14, and Malu is 26. A wide range of experience and perspective. They are psyched, brought their lunches to-go, and full of spunk. At the bus station, hurried hands push us towards our Flores flight into Pisco where the march will be this morning.

The march is about the lack of reconstruction in Pisco, the most affected town of the department. There's a large list of complaints.

“Para reforzar la seguridad ciudadana se cuentan 2.500 vehiculos nuevos, 5 mil computadoras, pero no hay comisaria en pisco, que hoy en el perú tiene 32 mil millones en reservas pero no hay plata para construir casas para los damnificados, que se han enregado mas de 560 mil titulos de propiedad, pero ninguno a los damnificados de pisco.” Are just a few of them. Basically, Peru's got money but none of it is going towards rebuilding Pisco. Or that what is being spent is being spent on the right things or in the right places.

The last time we were in Pisco, the highway into town from the Cruce was ripped up into pieces. Cars went on detour and bikes lucked out with a lovely little car-less ride to Pisco. We turn the corner and guess what? Partially paved, the 2nd anniversary of the earthquake looks like a picturesquely progressing roadway. But our microbus only brings us so far because the rest of the tiny streets that would typically lead us in have been stripped of their pavement to install what looks like water systems. Our students immediately whip out their cameras. Malu narrates to the Flip, “We're here today in Pisco to see the march for reconstruction. As you can see here, the roads have been ripped up and many houses have yet to be repaired.” Cecilia and Elaine stick close together, basically taking video of the same thing.

The Plaza de Armas is swarming with marchers who don't seem to be working together. Isolated groups fighting for different things with different messages are circling the center statue shouting things about government, gas companies in the national reserve, and education. We filmed for a mere 20 or 30 minutes before the entire thing was over. Spectators covered every surface of the plaza, seated comfortably watching serenely. Malu, Cecilia, and Elaine ended up making a great team as one asked questions and the others stationed themselves taking two different shots of the interviewed. Afterwards, we ate lunch outside the Ceas church where the first mass was taking place in their new bamboo church. Everyone brought different lunches ranging from french fries, rice, fish, noodles, chicken, adobo, sweet potatoes, and even pallares. Afterwards, we circled around the plaza looking for more shots of the destruction/reconstruction and doing interviews with people who already have houses. And then... we took a taxi to San Andres to check out the beach, buy some fresh fish, and smell around for fresh bread. Right out of the taxi, we realize that no one is selling fish. So we walk into the butcher's shop to figure out the deal. There's a transportation strike today. We already knew this though, and it was just between Pisco and Chincha so no big deal. However, this means our family will be missing out on fruits from the sea.

Instead the girls squeal on over to the beach to collect shells and get sand in their socks. A lot.

Back to the Plaza de Armas to check out the action before we wrap up this field trip. There's not much going on though, so we continue onwards to the Cruce to buy our Soyuz ticket. But... there's a strike. And as far as the eye can see, there are cars buses trucks double deckers taximotos and people backed up. But we promised to get them home by 4 and it's past 3.

Taxi for 20 soles each? It only cost us 4 to get here! Okay, how about 10? Ummm... 45 for all five of you. And then our salvation of a combi comes. A bus that typically runs between San Clemenete and Pisco decides to reroute and take advantage of the strike by now doing runs between Pisco and Ica. 8 soles a piece. Not bad.

By the time we get back to Manco Capac, everyone is exhausted. But we have optional class today for consultations on editing and planning their final videos. We chilled for an hour with the family to let them know we're still alive. Adam ate a huge piece of cinnamon stick. Brooke inhaled some rice like there was no tomorrow. And we chatted about how sometimes eating things out of a mug is a really nice portion and feeling.

Then back to the casita where there is a game of volleyball happening. We split up, staking out the house and sending someone off to check on Pamela's formatting job. In the end, Adam plays volleyball while Brooke scribbles along with some students to make posters for our final event. Then we hit up the keepers of La Capilla (church) to see if we can get our foot in the door to host our event there. It's well known. It's not affiliated with any NGO. It's on the Manco Capac side. Unlike the Casita which is small, built by Aportes, yet central. We're not entirely sure how to get both communities to come to the same place. We'll consult Yngrid, our Aportes friend who is an expert on the locale.

Somehow, we get home where Juan has been waiting to eat. We tuck in food while watching a part of Girl with a Pearl Earring. Next stop: figure out a plan to stay awake while blogging at 10:30pm


14 Friday August, 2009

-Get water from well. Take amazing video shots.

-Do laundry while husking corn.

-Eat lunch of corn, think about how darn late it got.

-Talk with Carlos about his movie. Download and get shown up by his mad computer science skills.

-Chat and chat with the Woman's Group

-And we learn about some up and coming projects in an organizational meeting held by the president of Manco Capac

-Somehow, we end up with an interview on Sunday with a woman who knows what's what about Cáritas which is perfect.

-Pensively decide not to go to the midnight demonstration in Pisco

-Pensively decide instead to work late and hit up the blankets early


13 Thursday August, 2009

It's almost midnight, and here we are again, thinking about making oatmeal cookies. We bought a massive amount of oatmeal for the family this morning for making quaker as well as a bag of flour yesterday to make vegetable tortillas. However, we both blink our eyes and let our contacts slide as we stare down our respective computers doing our respective jobs of typing the blog and naming footage.

We just came back from our consultation hours with our students in the Casita. Pamela (our editing expert) came to simply come. We would have worked more with her footage, however we are short on a MPEG-2 converter that needs to be purchased from Mac since it is apparently patented by someone who probably never thought the technology would be needed right here and right now in Peru with these kids. Twenty bucks? Twenty BUCKS?! Really, people, apple is running a scam here making my OS obsolete every few years and taking all of my programs with it. iMovie is awful. So awful. So is the em-pehg-two formatting of our camera. Damn that camera.

Cecilia and her partner are there, but Malú is playing a game of volleyball where the stakes are high. Cincuenta centimes to each of the winners. However, Malú and Ceci have taking more shots since we met yesterday which indicates more progress towards their completed video.

Brahayan and Elaine, our youngest two students, are still at a stand-still and are super busy with school. We suggest that maybe they should join other groups, make their movie about something else, or take the footage from Pisco that we are going to be recording this upcoming Saturday to use for their raw inputs. This is all done as Adam hangs out a window and Brooke squats on the ground surrounded by four pensive students. They decide that maybe they should talk with their parents one more time to see if they can get one of them to say yes if we cover their tickets to and from Pisco. In any case, their message is to tell their community that they should be more united. Maybe if they show what’s happening in the Caserio Manco Capác and Señor de Luren compared to Pisco’s march, they can show that some places have come together to make a statement.

Staring at them play volleyball…

Before this, we had been crawling around the neighborhood at a record slow speed trying to do surveys. Adam’s idea was to do random encuestas around the town to see how fast the news of our class has been spreading, especially given the last assignment which involved people running around with their video cameras recording all that they could about the reconstruction. Our results is that although a majority of our class is from Manco Capác, only ¼ of our sample knew about the class. Señor de Luren (of which we technically have 1.5 students – one student has a house in each. One with her grandparents and the other with her mother) has a sample of 3/7s people who know about the class. We have yet to pin point whether distance from the Casita correlates to knowing about the class.

Before we do our encuestas though, we encounter a group of women cooking a very large pot (think the size of a pot that could boil Brooke whole) of what appears to be hot chocolate. Which it is. And it smells good. Vaso de Leche is a partially government funded organization that tries to make sure that every night, every kid gets a good glass of milk in them. The people are gathered around the pot, chatting as some of them lean over to push more wood under the Goliath. Just down the way, a few houses next door, there is another group of people who are just taking advantage of what’s left of the sun.

My forearms hurt from typing so much at once.

Before surveys, we were so lucky to encounter some homemade Chaunfainita boiling in a pot as we arrived from La Tinguiña where we were messing around with our Mac to see if we could get it working to transform MPEG2s to AVI. Additionally we rode our bikes there to enjoy the daily dose of tanning, dust-in-the-eyes, and exercise. We happened upon a bike repair shop at which we asked about prices to re-sell our well-used steeds.

We are old people and start falling sleep while typing at only 10:40 pm. A rooster crows. He is confused and sounds almost as if he is inside the house. Mostly because he is. At least, there is a window that opens to the house that is shared with his cage.

Our alarm went off around 4:50 this morning. We planned on working out before helping with the water. Instead, Adam managed to bench Brooke’s weight. Well, actually she crawled up in a ball and he just benched her. Then abuelita called us out of bed and onto our feet and into duty to distribute water from here to there and there and there. Today, we prepared too much food for the amount of people that are actually home and want to eat. In fact, we made so much that we couldn’t finish it for lunch or dinner. This morning: sweet potatoes, rice, tortillas of vegetable, hot chocolate, and bread with guanabana jelly inside. Then off to visit a little old lady and Pamela. One to interview about the history of Manco Capac and the other to check on some different formatting possibilities.


12 Wednesday August, 2009

Today was a day of should-have-beens. Instead of blogging, let me list the ways the day should have been. Then you can decide if our normative, idealistic thinking is out of line.

  1. The water should have come today at 6:00 a.m. We were ready for it, even working out early so that we could be present for the fiasco. It wasn't here by 7. It wasn't here by 8. In fact, it never showed.
  2. Gabe should have had a bus ticket for Cusco for 1:00, but instead he is delayed a few hours.
  3. There should be some sort of written history or something existing on this place we're staying in, but there really isn't. We're finding this out slowly and painfully as we start to cross off all of our possible leads.
  4. We should be doing surveys so that we can have some sort of raw data of demographics within the NGO information realm when we return. Instead, we are invited to play soccer and volleyball.
  5. This blog should be longer, but we are running out of words in both languages to describe our experience.

The end.


11 Tuesday August, 2009

Today we are scheduled to visit every single one of our students. One-by-one. We have 8 active students. We have a 75% success rate of encountering our class. We just miss out on 2 people. One because it is too late and the other because he lives too far away. The entire process is very complicated because

A. People live in different neighborhoods

B. Have different schedules depending on what grade they're in (Some go to school in the morning, others in the afternoon, and others in the noche).

C. People are in different stages of their videos (and of their lives)

D. Depending on their age, they have very different thinking capacities for imagining how the final project will be and what steps are needed to move towards it.

E. We have to talk to them about several things. The editing process, our fieldtrip to Pisco on Saturday, fixing the final dates for our screening, and a class evaluation. Not only do they have to fill it out, they also need to respond to a camera with their answers for the evaluation.

In our first pass, Malu is busy. Come back at 3. Our second pass uncovers something incredible: an edited video that includes several (if not all of the) takes from our Connect4 scavenger hunt. Pamela has already completed her homework of having a draft put together. She has a twenty minute video that she and Yubi worked on for two hours to put together within two days of having shot the footage. Her turn over is amazing. Unfortunately, her plot seems rather random, her footage is still intact (as in, she left every take whole) without sacking the useless information within each take, and the entire thing is incredibly long for saying very little. Let's take a step back: second video of intent and message that she's ever done. Therefore, we are on a roll. With a little more planning and thought, her editing skills can be put to good use to throw together something quick for the final screening. We tell her that maybe her video can stand as a backbone for the other videos since she has the capacity to import several videos as well as stitch them together in a fairly timely fashion. This would be ideal seeing as we would like to consider it THEIR video rather than a collaboration between us and the students. We sort of leave a few questions for her to ask herself and Yubi: what do you want your message to be? Who is this message to? What point of view do you have that no one else in your community has? And after 2 hours, we leave. Side note: we also find out that it is going to be innnnnnncredibly difficult to change our flight tickets. Difficult like a couple thousand dollars difficult. Right. No.

Next comes Malu. We ask her to take a look at what takes she already has and to choose the shots that she thinks best relate to her message and audience. She picks up on our game quickly and SNAP! Lika flash of light, she is rearranging small index cards to set up a storyboard for her footage. She fills in some blanks and decides that she'll take this footage later. We say ALRIGHT! And that we'll pass the message onto her project partner etc etc. Her message? That there is a lot of work from the NGOs here, none from the government, and that the help has been a lot but not enough to really bring things back to par. She also wants to point out that in a lot of cases, there are people receiving aid who don't need it but are in favor of a government or friends with someone on the ladder. Points for Malu.

Then we hit up Brahayan (sounds like Bryan) to shoot the sand. His message is unclear. His grandmother talks to us a lot about witches who used to live here. His footage is apparently insufficient to create anything of significance, and he is out of ideas. Soooo we say that we'll talk to his project partner to check if she's got some things to say and get back to ,him.

Then we play duck duck goose with the rest of our students. Elaine isn't there. Cecilia is, but she has to get all dolled up before she can meet with Malu. We have ten minutes to bring her back before it gets dark. Go. The group talks. Elaine isn't there. We try to convince Cecilia's mom that the field trip will be a great lesson. Cecilia goes back home. Elaine is there, but now Bryan can't meet cause it's too late. And then there's Alison. But it's too dark and she has to think and Carlos and her can't meet until Friday any ways so then we decide that we should just head back home cause it's late and no one probably wants to talk to us anymore cause we're always on their cases. Or something like that.

Oh yeah, then we went to bed.


10 Monday August, 2009

This morning we wake up with three things on our mind: climbing high mountains, forging wide rivers, and trekking through low valleys. Okay, actually only climbing mountains and going into Ica to deal with more bureaucracy to slowly and painfully extract small snippets of information from the government and other institutions. Since Gabe is only going to be here for a few days, we decide to show him a good time by forcing him to climb a nearby mountain for a few hours while we peacefully slumber behind him in a cart that he struggles to hoist up the side of the steep slopes of the cerro. Simultaneously, we are also slashing through the city of Ica trashing all the offices we encounter.

The view from the mountain top still lurks in the back of our minds like an unforgettable smile of a friend. There is abundant amounts of fake gold glimmering on the surfaces of the sand dunes, collecting in the pockets between rocks where they are tucked away from the gusts of winds near the peak. Our backs have been blessed with sunshine and beautiful weather as we lift our knees más y más arriba. We are only accompanied by carrots, water, and a GPS we never bothered to turn on. On the way down, we notice the people working in the field like small mechanized dots of Braille trying to communicate a secret message to towards space. They move slowly to reorganize and make new shapes, sometimes.

Meanwhile in Ica, Adam meets with Cáritas reps who have a little bit of verbal info on Manco Cápac. It is made clear to them that we are only after information about the town that they have gathered but they just want to talk about how they have built many homes there and how the people were really forgotten until they came and rescued them. We got contact info for someone from their office who knows more about the background data, so hopefully we can get in touch with her. At the Regional Government office we successfully complete the next step towards obtaining any data that they have over that region, data that we assume is quite useless. They politely show us the information on a CD, taunting us, and go on to explain that it will take at least 4 visits in person, wearing pants, to get the information we need. This is the second. F public beauracracy.

PNUD was the other major stop. Contrary to what an email we had received from them had said, they have no info on this tiny place. The person who had sent the email was not around and was not answering her phone so it might be she knows something the others (and us) don´t.

Then batteries for the FlipCams. Only a few more since we don´t want to go overboard. Then water for the bloodstream. Then yogurt for the salad, pine and apple we are going to make for breakfast tomorrow. Some spinach. Lots of hot peppers and try and head back before lunchtime.

We reunite after some hours of this glorious intake of fresh air, across the dry garbage-filled river, and back into our home for lunch. Edwin, who only slept a mere 2.33 hours a previous night, was still in good spirits. Him and his daughter danced to the songs of Mariachis while abuelita served our plates. Recently we have no choice about the portions of the plates so they end up much larger than what we’re capable of eating. Today was a mystery mixture of something green with meat, corn, potatoes topped with a side of rice. Sudado, they call it. Some apple water and cinnamon water to add the finishing touches, and we’re all in food comas.

We have decided that since we have yet to encounter much written information about Caserio Macho Capác and Señor de Luren, we will go out and do our own survey to collect our invaluable information about the history of the town and how it came to be. We meet someone who claims that he has been here since the 1930s. He hardly looks like he could be 50. There were also recounts of the agrarian reform that happened about twenty years back, or in 1974 depending on who we choose to believe. From what we could determine from the surveys that we did today is the following; the land used to be untouched. Then there were large parcels of land that would place their farms and their homes. Here, they stayed until they were slowly put out of their work or lost portions of their farms by land-grabbers. During this time, a few families moved towards the Achirana river and became the first settlers of Manco Cápac. One of these first settlers was named De La Cruz. Then comes the reform. Then comes Viña Tacama. We ask about the education, try to get a feel for the general demographic, and listen to whatever else they want to talk about. Some mechanics tell us about how we can do a day of work like a typical campesino here. He says that he wouldn’t recommend it for women especially since you have to carry a bag of 120 kilograms up a ramp to harvest papas here.

After this, we return home to confirm all our findings, eat dinner, upload and organize interview footage, plan for the meetings we have set up for the students (we agreed to seek out each and every student to give them info during the week and hear from them since this is the first week of school and the kids are more busy than usual), and find our ways to bed.


9 Sunday August, 2009

Hola water. Hola sun. Hola sand in my shoe. Hola dogs in the streets. Hola people looking at three kids running with a pit bull. Hola dust in my eyes. Hola cramp in my belly. Hola beautiful mountain view. Hola legs.

Buenos Dias to the morning run.

Today’s class doesn’t start until 4pm, but we have a full schedule in front of us. You know, the usual metaphysical transformation from human beings into tubes. The typical wake up in the morning and grinding of toasted corn for the normal breakfast drink. The leaving of the family’s most valuable watch dog in an unfamiliar neighborhood with the chance of being totally and utterly destroyed by several other mangy, thick-haired mutts while we run back towards the house as he is entirely helpless to move without setting off a never-ending alarm of howls, barks, and growls unless he does it quickly enough that his four legs will carry him faster than any of the other 40 legs that are careening around his adrenaline filled body ready to attack. Somehow, we ended up in a new part of town with Pirata during our morning run. And somehow, we managed to leave Pirata behind with what-might-have-been-a-few-other-angry-looking dogs. But only sort of. So Adam said, don’t worry guys! I’ll go back and get him.

So then we ran back to the house where we eagerly awaited the arrival of Adam … without Pirata. That’s right folks, without Pirata. Emergency response! Sirens! Man the bikes! Stop cooking breakfast! We must recover our most prized pet! Long story short, he is very capable of taking care of himself and returned with a big smile to top off his cantering tip toes.

We try to help with breakfast, but abuelita has her stuff down pat. She takes pity on Gabe though and hands him a knife to spread jam on little sandwiches. She probably does this a lot with us in the kitchen. It must be painful to watch us peel potatoes so clumsily when she is deft enough with her agile fingers that man a knife to the skin of the vegetable without even looking at what’s she’s doing. When our mouths drop at her feat, she just laughs and asks what we’re so amazed by. Obviously, the entire time she is staring us in the eyes. So we head into the room to make a worksheet for today’s class.

After Adam returns from hours of toning his muscles to perfection, we take off for a thirty minute bike ride into La Tinguiña in order to use a computer connected to a printer, connected to a floor, connected to a sidewalk, connected to fresh air, connected to a tienda, connected to a copy machine which spits out 14 copies for us to bring back to the Caserio. Gabe checks up on getting his butt out and about to Macchu Picchu. Then we hit up the market to bring back nummies for the family. Pineapple and Bananas. We divine that while we are gone, Adam is probably chopping wood. And we get back, he totally had been chopping wood.

But upon our arrival, we encounter nothing but sheepish smiles of Adam, abuelita, and Edwin who are seated in a shady, quiet dining room. The table is filled with plates. Those plates are filled with absolutely nothing. Miss Peacock with the candlestick in the library! Ariana is in the corner sleeping soundly, and we try to mask the sounds of our bellies rumbling as we sneak past. Delicious wheat popped looking rice smoosh. And rice. And soup. But this wheat stuff seems like it might be quinoa, but it’s not. And there are spices. And our tongues need to be shoved back in our mouths before they stay out for good like your mother warned you would happen if you crossed your eyes and got hit on the back. But we always get our fill of food in this house. And for that, we are thankful.

Afterwards, we do surveys. It’s like a rite of passage for any of our visitors. If you wanna hang with us, you gotta pass the test of hitting up every house of the neighborhood we be livin in at the time. And listen to stories you might not understand. And possible be put to the task of holding a camera. Oh, so is life. But Gabe handles himself well, taking perfectly (obviously) framed shots along the way. Figures, him being an architecture major with a concentration in film. Someone’s gotta have the eye here. We meet the president of the Comedor. We talk to nice people. We find out that even if you live across the street from dozens of Aportes houses, there’s a high possibility that you don’t know their name. We find out that the word Broccoli is easier to pronounce that Brooke’s name. Someone gave Aportes a 20 outta 20 which indicates they’re outta this world. Oh, and we find another NGO. That was big. Well, it’s a church. El Shaddai, the evangelical one that Juan attends, has been the entry point for many of churches from the Untied States and many other countries. Juan also says (as we type) that on the fourth day, trucks showed up with blankets, jackets, and water. But the work happening now to build these anti-seismic brick models has been founded by these foreign churches as well as constructed with their help. Oh, and Pirata got into two more fights where he was out-numbered. But as expected, he remains unscathed and smugly victorious.

In class, we saw the results. Apparently, according to Adam’s theory, it doesn’t matter who you are. If you have a camera, it becomes your face. It is in the mind of the people. Where will this footage go. Why are people interested in my opinion. Who else is going to see what I say in this very moment. I think I need to choose my words very carefully and make sure not to step on the nails that are surely just around the corner. And this is how they came out. Personal opinion, the most interesting shots were from the prompt, “where is the place that most represents your town to you, why?” We got more varied responses for this one than the others. But there were many houses demonstrated to the camera as the icon of the word “reconstruction.” There were many thank yous to the NGOs. There were many many shots of the church in Manco Capác. We also talk about dates for our last class and screening, ask them to think about, and discuss going to Pisco for the earthquake’s anniversary. Any of us “professors” would have been sound asleep after two and half hours of this sort of fooling around if we had been students in our students’ shoes.

And they were cool with the assignment. In fact, they ran out into the streets immediately after receiving it to go ask people about their opinions about NGOs. They even seemed determined to make funny videos of each other dancing and singing about NGOs. A boring topic turned on its head by simple competition. But what we find out is that there are many people who will decline to be interviewed and many more with mouthfuls of positive, non-constructive things to say. In short, we might have been able to get better footage than they did simply because we knew what sorts of questions to ask from our previous practice. But people would decline to be interviewed because they thought we were with an NGO (and why wouldn’t they since we are teaching in a community center put up by an NGO?). Unfortunately, they seemed more interested in just checking off the squares as tasks to complete rather than thoughts to think in. Of course, there were the exceptions, but for the most part, the footage was endlessly familiar shots of people saying thank you or that the earthquake was “very very bad.” But nothing more of detail.

Delicious food as always for dinner and then back into bed for another few hours before the early morning calls us.


8 Saturuday August, 2009

“Apple Ops¨

Sprint workouts are shorter and more fun – but sand is slow. Pecks and triceps day put the cherry on top of the cake.

Our class today starts at 5pm. We have also committed to having office hours open to the students from 2 to 5pm., so we need to eat lunch before then – easier blogged than done. Lunch is a guiso of this new vegetable thing so no one wants to leave without fully enjoying that.

We make it over there though, and no one really shows up until 4pm – kinda what we expected. This gives us time to dedicate to brainstorming and discussing how our project in general is going and think about how we might shape our documentary. We spend an hour or so discussing how we see our trip playing in, our personal travel, into the documentary. Malu shows up at 4:15pm to show us her video showing a typical morning in her life. As we sit down to watch her shots and put them into a quick video, she sits down with a few sheets of paper and draws out a post-filming story board. We let her know this is totally not necessary, especially since storyboarding is meant to be a planning tool, but she sheds our advice, saying she likes to draw.

Cool.

Speaking of cool, Malu´s shots are done incredibly well. She apologizes for not being able to film her dad, saying he broke a rib yesterday and is in the hospital. We´re pretty sure her video skills of placement of camera to film herself were put to good use, tho. In short, she caught us off-guard with how well done her shots were. She had a great shot of her sweeping, then the whole process of making a sopa a la minuta (soup) starting a wood fire (personal favorite), filling it with water, chopping up vegetables and then of course a bowl of the finished product.

Backtracking before lunch, Adam plays with bikes and tools, and Brooke spends the time printing off things for the class – we´ve made a Connect 4 game/worksheet for the kids in which they have to do at least 4 of the 16 filming options we made up for them. Each of these tasks had something to do with NGOs or reconstruction, etc. Basically this was our way of testing the waters to gauge their interest in this whole NGO evaluation thing using youth participatory video. Will they be cool with it? Will they like/enjoy it? Will the community be overwhelmed by it? Will they find out things we couldn´t have found ourselves? Will they learn new things about these topics that will pique their interest? Will they be interested in the topics or in the prizes more? (Yes we are giving them prizes – our assumption is we should ease them into the more boring/academic topic of interviewing using questions centered on NGOs).

Anyways, the kids take it in stride. They totally seem to be into it, we think, we guess, we hope. The three prizes we set up are for:

1. The most interesting/informative

2. The most artistic

3. The most different filming options completed

4. The most fun

We take input for what prizes the students would like and this was a list of some responses:

Chanfaina (soupy potatoes and meat and vegetable dish)

Soda

Chocalate cake with Pecans

Chocotejas (chocalatey pecans)

Sweet breads

We´ll see what we end up deciding – we told them we would decide by next Thursday.

While the kids run around interviewing and planning for how they will complete their connect 4, one of us chases behind different pairs and films them. And then there is the filming option of filming some other group doing their task. So, basically at any given time, there might be 3 or more cameras all filming in a circle.

Are we using the kids? Are we misusing the kids?

And suddenly Gabe showed up. He found his own way to our house and from there was led down to the schoolhouse. Chilling, he meets the kids as they return from there scavenger hunt. Then we sit down to critique their films on their “typical day in the life of..”. Gabe integrates in smoothly and begins offering critique right away. Meanwhile a couple teenage girls in the corner begin sneaking video of Gabe, giggling. When we ask them what they are doing they turn as red as Peruvian girls can get and claim to not be doing anything. Sure…

After class, we head home for dinner. Everyone has eaten already since we are coming back so late. We split up the food and chow down, settle Gabe in a bit, exchange life-altering accounts of daily life, organize footage, draw a bit, and blog.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Leirbag





10 Monday August, 2009

"Gold! And there! And more! We´re rich, don´t tell the others"

This morning we wake up with three things on our mind: climbing high mountains, forging wide rivers, and trekking through low valleys. Okay, actually only climbing mountains and going into Ica to deal with more bureaucracy to slowly and painfully extract small snippets of information from the government and other institutions. Since Gabe is only going to be here for a few days, we decide to show him a good time by forcing him to climb a nearby mountain for a few hours while we peacefully slumber behind him in a cart that he struggles to hoist up the side of the steep slopes of the cerro. Simultaneously, we are also slashing through the city of Ica trashing all the offices we encounter.

The view from the mountain top still lurks in the back of our minds like an unforgettable smile of a friend. There is abundant amounts of fake gold glimmering on the surfaces of the sand dunes, collecting in the pockets between rocks where they are tucked away from the gusts of winds near the peak. Our backs have been blessed with sunshine and beautiful weather as we lift our knees más y más arriba. We are only accompanied by carrots, water, and a GPS we never bothered to turn on. On the way down, we notice the people working in the field like small mechanized dots of Braille trying to communicate a secret message to towards space. They move slowly to reorganize and make new shapes, sometimes.

Meanwhile in Ica, Adam meets with Cáritas reps who have a little bit of verbal info on Manco Cápac. It is made clear to them that we are only after information about the town that they have gathered but they just want to talk about how they have built many homes there and how the people were really forgotten until they came and rescued them. We got contact info for someone from their office who knows more about the background data, so hopefully we can get in touch with her. At the Regional Government office we successfully complete the next step towards obtaining any data that they have over that region, data that we assume is quite useless. They politely show us the information on a CD, taunting us, and go on to explain that it will take at least 4 visits in person, wearing pants, to get the information we need. This is the second. F public beauracracy.

PNUD was the other major stop. Contrary to what an email we had received from them had said, they have no info on this tiny place. The person who had sent the email was not around and was not answering her phone so it might be she knows something the others (and us) don´t.

Then batteries for the FlipCams. Only a few more since we don´t want to go overboard. Then water for the bloodstream. Then yogurt for the salad, pine and apple we are going to make for breakfast tomorrow. Some spinach. Lots of hot peppers and try and head back before lunchtime.

We reunite after some hours of this glorious intake of fresh air, across the dry garbage-filled river, and back into our home for lunch. Edwin, who only slept a mere 2.33 hours a previous night, was still in good spirits. Him and his daughter danced to the songs of Mariachis while abuelita served our plates. Recently we have no choice about the portions of the plates so they end up much larger than what we’re capable of eating. Today was a mystery mixture of something green with meat, corn, potatoes topped with a side of rice. Sudado, they call it. Some apple water and cinnamon water to add the finishing touches, and we’re all in food comas.

We have decided that since we have yet to encounter much written information about Caserio Macho Capác and Señor de Luren, we will go out and do our own survey to collect our invaluable information about the history of the town and how it came to be. We meet someone who claims that he has been here since the 1930s. He hardly looks like he could be 50. There were also recounts of the agrarian reform that happened about twenty years back, or in 1974 depending on who we choose to believe. From what we could determine from the surveys that we did today is the following; the land used to be untouched. Then there were large parcels of land that would place their farms and their homes. Here, they stayed until they were slowly put out of their work or lost portions of their farms by land-grabbers. During this time, a few families moved towards the Achirana river and became the first settlers of Manco Cápac. One of these first settlers was named De La Cruz. Then comes the reform. Then comes Viña Tacama. We ask about the education, try to get a feel for the general demographic, and listen to whatever else they want to talk about. Some mechanics tell us about how we can do a day of work like a typical campesino here. He says that he wouldn’t recommend it for women especially since you have to carry a bag of 120 kilograms up a ramp to harvest papas here.

After this, we return home to confirm all our findings, eat dinner, upload and organize interview footage, plan for the meetings we have set up for the students (we agreed to seek out each and every student to give them info during the week and hear from them since this is the first week of school and the kids are more busy than usual), and find our ways to bed.


9 Sunday August, 2009
"That breakfast was amazing."






Hola water. Hola sun. Hola sand in my shoe. Hola dogs in the streets. Hola people looking at three kids running with a pit bull. Hola dust in my eyes. Hola cramp in my belly. Hola beautiful mountain view. Hola legs.

Buenos Dias to the morning run.

Today’s class doesn’t start until 4pm, but we have a full schedule in front of us. You know, the usual metaphysical transformation from human beings into tubes. The typical wake up in the morning and grinding of toasted corn for the normal breakfast drink. The leaving of the family’s most valuable watch dog in an unfamiliar neighborhood with the chance of being totally and utterly destroyed by several other mangy, thick-haired mutts while we run back towards the house as he is entirely helpless to move without setting off a never-ending alarm of howls, barks, and growls unless he does it quickly enough that his four legs will carry him faster than any of the other 40 legs that are careening around his adrenaline filled body ready to attack. Somehow, we ended up in a new part of town with Pirata during our morning run. And somehow, we managed to leave Pirata behind with what-might-have-been-a-few-other-angry-looking dogs. But only sort of. So Adam said, don’t worry guys! I’ll go back and get him.

So then we ran back to the house where we eagerly awaited the arrival of Adam … without Pirata. That’s right folks, without Pirata. Emergency response! Sirens! Man the bikes! Stop cooking breakfast! We must recover our most prized pet! Long story short, he is very capable of taking care of himself and returned with a big smile to top off his cantering tip toes.

We try to help with breakfast, but abuelita has her stuff down pat. She takes pity on Gabe though and hands him a knife to spread jam on little sandwiches. She probably does this a lot with us in the kitchen. It must be painful to watch us peel potatoes so clumsily when she is deft enough with her agile fingers that man a knife to the skin of the vegetable without even looking at what’s she’s doing. When our mouths drop at her feat, she just laughs and asks what we’re so amazed by. Obviously, the entire time she is staring us in the eyes. So we head into the room to make a worksheet for today’s class.

After Adam returns from hours of toning his muscles to perfection, we take off for a thirty minute bike ride into La Tinguiña in order to use a computer connected to a printer, connected to a floor, connected to a sidewalk, connected to fresh air, connected to a tienda, connected to a copy machine which spits out 14 copies for us to bring back to the Caserio. Gabe checks up on getting his butt out and about to Macchu Picchu. Then we hit up the market to bring back nummies for the family. Pineapple and Bananas. We divine that while we are gone, Adam is probably chopping wood. And we get back, he totally had been chopping wood.

But upon our arrival, we encounter nothing but sheepish smiles of Adam, abuelita, and Edwin who are seated in a shady, quiet dining room. The table is filled with plates. Those plates are filled with absolutely nothing. Miss Peacock with the candlestick in the library! Ariana is in the corner sleeping soundly, and we try to mask the sounds of our bellies rumbling as we sneak past. Delicious wheat popped looking rice smoosh. And rice. And soup. But this wheat stuff seems like it might be quinoa, but it’s not. And there are spices. And our tongues need to be shoved back in our mouths before they stay out for good like your mother warned you would happen if you crossed your eyes and got hit on the back. But we always get our fill of food in this house. And for that, we are thankful.

Afterwards, we do surveys. It’s like a rite of passage for any of our visitors. If you wanna hang with us, you gotta pass the test of hitting up every house of the neighborhood we be livin in at the time. And listen to stories you might not understand. And possible be put to the task of holding a camera. Oh, so is life. But Gabe handles himself well, taking perfectly (obviously) framed shots along the way. Figures, him being an architecture major with a concentration in film. Someone’s gotta have the eye here. We meet the president of the Comedor. We talk to nice people. We find out that even if you live across the street from dozens of Aportes houses, there’s a high possibility that you don’t know their name. We find out that the word Broccoli is easier to pronounce that Brooke’s name. Someone gave Aportes a 20 outta 20 which indicates they’re outta this world. Oh, and we find another NGO. That was big. Well, it’s a church. El Shaddai, the evangelical one that Juan attends, has been the entry point for many of churches from the Untied States and many other countries. Juan also says (as we type) that on the fourth day, trucks showed up with blankets, jackets, and water. But the work happening now to build these anti-seismic brick models has been founded by these foreign churches as well as constructed with their help. Oh, and Pirata got into two more fights where he was out-numbered. But as expected, he remains unscathed and smugly victorious.

In class, we saw the results. Apparently, according to Adam’s theory, it doesn’t matter who you are. If you have a camera, it becomes your face. It is in the mind of the people. Where will this footage go. Why are people interested in my opinion. Who else is going to see what I say in this very moment. I think I need to choose my words very carefully and make sure not to step on the nails that are surely just around the corner. And this is how they came out. Personal opinion, the most interesting shots were from the prompt, “where is the place that most represents your town to you, why?” We got more varied responses for this one than the others. But there were many houses demonstrated to the camera as the icon of the word “reconstruction.” There were many thank yous to the NGOs. There were many many shots of the church in Manco Capác. We also talk about dates for our last class and screening, ask them to think about, and discuss going to Pisco for the earthquake’s anniversary. Any of us “professors” would have been sound asleep after two and half hours of this sort of fooling around if we had been students in our students’ shoes.

And they were cool with the assignment. In fact, they ran out into the streets immediately after receiving it to go ask people about their opinions about NGOs. They even seemed determined to make funny videos of each other dancing and singing about NGOs. A boring topic turned on its head by simple competition. But what we find out is that there are many people who will decline to be interviewed and many more with mouthfuls of positive, non-constructive things to say. In short, we might have been able to get better footage than they did simply because we knew what sorts of questions to ask from our previous practice. But people would decline to be interviewed because they thought we were with an NGO (and why wouldn’t they since we are teaching in a community center put up by an NGO?). Unfortunately, they seemed more interested in just checking off the squares as tasks to complete rather than thoughts to think in. Of course, there were the exceptions, but for the most part, the footage was endlessly familiar shots of people saying thank you or that the earthquake was “very very bad.” But nothing more of detail.

Delicious food as always for dinner and then back into bed for another few hours before the early morning calls us.



8 Saturday August, 2009
“Apple Ops¨

Sprint workouts are shorter and more fun – but sand is slow. Pecks and triceps day put the cherry on top of the cake.

Our class today starts at 5pm. We have also committed to having office hours open to the students from 2 to 5pm., so we need to eat lunch before then – easier blogged than done. Lunch is a guiso of this new vegetable thing so no one wants to leave without fully enjoying that.

We make it over there though, and no one really shows up until 4pm – kinda what we expected. This gives us time to dedicate to brainstorming and discussing how our project in general is going and think about how we might shape our documentary. We spend an hour or so discussing how we see our trip playing in, our personal travel, into the documentary. Malu shows up at 4:15pm to show us her video showing a typical morning in her life. As we sit down to watch her shots and put them into a quick video, she sits down with a few sheets of paper and draws out a post-filming story board. We let her know this is totally not necessary, especially since storyboarding is meant to be a planning tool, but she sheds our advice, saying she likes to draw.

Cool.

Speaking of cool, Malu´s shots are done incredibly well. She apologizes for not being able to film her dad, saying he broke a rib yesterday and is in the hospital. We´re pretty sure her video skills of placement of camera to film herself were put to good use, tho. In short, she caught us off-guard with how well done her shots were. She had a great shot of her sweeping, then the whole process of making a sopa a la minuta (soup) starting a wood fire (personal favorite), filling it with water, chopping up vegetables and then of course a bowl of the finished product.

Backtracking before lunch, Adam plays with bikes and tools, and Brooke spends the time printing off things for the class – we´ve made a Connect 4 game/worksheet for the kids in which they have to do at least 4 of the 16 filming options we made up for them. Each of these tasks had something to do with NGOs or reconstruction, etc. Basically this was our way of testing the waters to gauge their interest in this whole NGO evaluation thing using youth participatory video. Will they be cool with it? Will they like/enjoy it? Will the community be overwhelmed by it? Will they find out things we couldn´t have found ourselves? Will they learn new things about these topics that will pique their interest? Will they be interested in the topics or in the prizes more? (Yes we are giving them prizes – our assumption is we should ease them into the more boring/academic topic of interviewing using questions centered on NGOs).

Anyways, the kids take it in stride. They totally seem to be into it, we think, we guess, we hope. The three prizes we set up are for:
1. The most interesting/informative
2. The most artistic
3. The most different filming options completed
4. The most fun

We take input for what prizes the students would like and this was a list of some responses:
Chanfaina (soupy potatoes and meat and vegetable dish)
Soda
Chocalate cake with Pecans
Chocotejas (chocalatey pecans)
Sweet breads

We´ll see what we end up deciding – we told them we would decide by next Thursday.

While the kids run around interviewing and planning for how they will complete their connect 4, one of us chases behind different pairs and films them. And then there is the filming option of filming some other group doing their task. So, basically at any given time, there might be 3 or more cameras all filming in a circle.

Are we using the kids? Are we misusing the kids?

And suddenly Gabe showed up. He found his own way to our house and from there was led down to the schoolhouse. Chilling, he meets the kids as they return from there scavenger hunt. Then we sit down to critique their films on their “typical day in the life of..”. Gabe integrates in smoothly and begins offering critique right away. Meanwhile a couple teenage girls in the corner begin sneaking video of Gabe, giggling. When we ask them what they are doing they turn as red as Peruvian girls can get and claim to not be doing anything. Sure…

After class, we head home for dinner. Everyone has eaten already since we are coming back so late. We split up the food and chow down, settle Gabe in a bit, exchange life-altering accounts of daily life, organize footage, draw a bit, and blog.

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Oopsie Daisies

I think we might be missing a few days here and there

egads. here's the latest:

7 August 2009, Friday
“Yes, french fries of the potatoe and camote variety! And we can make fry sanwiches!”

Ceviche. Homemade. Raw white fish chopped up and swimming in salt, pepper, lime, parsley, ginger, garlic, celery, aji-no-moto, ají, and salt-bathed onions on the side with boiled sweet potatoes, normal potatoes, and lettuce to be the nest of it all. Amazing.

We also have a fish soup that is delicious. Fried fish and rice will have to wait for dinner tho since we are all full as a 50-gallon drum on the day water comes in.

Quotes from the lunch experience.

“This is likely the best lunch I have ever eaten”
“We are eating like kings tonight”
“Kings eat lunch late cuz they can do whatever they want”
“In Boston´s Machu Piccu restaurant this would cost like 70 soles for one meal.”
“This meal cost around 15 soles for 5 of us to be stuffed.”
“I´ll bribe my way to the United States with ceviche in the mouths of immigration.”
“But its an emergency, Sir - my son Adam and daughter Brooke called me from the US and need me to come up to give them ceviche.”

Quechua:
“Yapaih Camouey Caldota” (Go get some more soup)
“Achike. Micuricuña” (We´ve eaten a lot)
“Uhh...Yumm...” (Tasty)

Lunch was the highlight of our lives. Beforehand we had worked out as if we were identical organisms – maybe flagella - and then split up. 1 to the farms to cut down grass and clovers to feed the guinea pigs and the other to the kitchen and the washing buckets. Guess which went where? We´ll give you a hint, it has something to do with gender.

After lunch we cleaned up and then worked on catching up on blogging, writing an official request for the info we need from the Regional government of Ica, and planning for class tomorrow.

Then we were reminded of the Ice Age 3 projection that was being hosted by APORTES, an NGO working here.



6 August 2009, Thursday

Yesterday was our day dedicated to helping out with every bit of the work around the house. So we pushed back meetings till today, which we planned on heading out at 7:30am (skipping our morning workout) and arriving at Ica around 8am.

Our plan is thwarted by the arrival of water in the early morning. Upon waking up at 6:50am, we hear our host mom (Abuelita) struggling with 2 5 gallon buckets full of water. She is trying to give orders to her 40 year old son Juan about where to carry the water to, and stumbles over her slippers, nearly falling. Of course we step in to help. Around the outside of the house there are at least 14 50-gallon drums that Abuelita tries to maintain full at any given time. Water comes rarely during this time of year since the rivers are all dry. A private consortium portions out water at certain times of the week and it is not very regular. The only running water they have is a low tube outside their house. Placing a wide bucket under this they fill larger pails which in turn fill the 50 gallon monstruos. Today is especially hectic because they are also attempting to fill a small reservoir for the construction project they are working on about 200 meters away. To do this they hook up a small pump to one of the 50 gallon drums and let it run like they don´t want to have to be a 200 meter water tube themselves later.

So instead we made like 10 meter water pipes and kept feeding the construction site till it was full and then the other drums and then it was 9am.

So we headed off to Ica but not until 10am. Our first stop put us even farther behind as our USB was returned to us, recovered by nice owners of the internet place. Yeh! Turns out all our info is wiped clean, and instead we have two friendly viruses, and is renamed Henry. To make a long story short, ended up downloading a flash file recovery program and finding some of the stuff we had lost. Everything important seems to be there.

Then we split up again, like people who are together often do. Brooke makes it back in time for an 11am editing and critique meeting with a couple of students. They don´t show up since they are both cooking lunch, so she is ends up not meeting with them till 1pm. Oh well, that just means she has time to learn how to cook mashed white beans and hang out with Arianna.

Adam heads to Ica to try and find more academic info on the two caseríos we are living in. It seems no research has really been done on the region except for a couple basic base line studies done by a couple NGOs very recently. Coming in we expected the older community members to be the best sources of info, but we also expected other research to exist somewhere – at least the municipality, right? Nope. Trust Adam. The best we could get from the Municipality of La Tinguiña (equivalent of a town municipality), was a two page document describing the basic history of La Tinguiña. Absolutely nothing more specific about the two caseríos and no statistical information on them whatsoever. Same with the Provincial Gobierno of Ica (equivalent of county). The Gobierno Regional of Ica (equivalent of state) doesn´t allow anyone in with shorts. WTF? After 10 mins on the phone with the Natural Resources engineer, we are able to convince him that even though we don´t have any ID with us whatsoever we are friendly American students looking for info for a research project. The only info they have is some soil borings nearby and general risk assessment studies that have been made into a map of general risks facing Ica.

We´ll take it.

Defensoría del Pueblo is really nice but they have no info. Contrary to intel we had received from another NGO, they are not doing any NGO evaluation/monitoring work at all. PNUD is out of the office. CODEHICA is super busy planning for the 2 year anniversary of the quake. CODEHICA´s children-focused wing agrees to an interview but we would need to coordinate through someone who wasn´t at the office at the time. Cáritas´s director wasn´t there and was gonna be there in “a couple minutes”. 20 mins later Adam got up and left, sick of waiting in offices. So he hung out in a park and watched an old man make modern art walk-shapes around and through the park. And ate lunch he´d packed.

Adam picked up water, bananas, and a box of tea bags for the family before heading back home.

Class starts at 6:30 but some kids think its 6. We show up in time to hang out with them till the rest of the students show up. We expect less of a turnout on a Thursday night, and it turns out to be true. From every group (2 per), however, at least one member showed up to share their video to the rest of the class.

These were their first videos of the class and for some of them these were the first videos ever. Given that, they did pretty well.

For dinner, we eat leftover mashed beans, helpings from the never-ending ricepot, and salad. After dinner, we try frying a regular banana for fun, then make a banana pancake and cook that hotcake. We also do potatoes vs. sweet yams in the form of fries. And we eat all that.

Too much grease, says Adam´s stomach. Brooke´s is made of solid titanium so she feels little more than a ping here and a pang there.


5 August 2009, Wednesday

Today we separated into traditional man and woman roles. If you know me, then you know how this might have played out in my head. Imagine ten years from now a stay-at-home-Brooke. It's not pretty. In any case, I have a load of appreciation for all men and women who are able to keep their wits and happiness about them even when the fruits of their labor are housework and cooking. This morning, we cooked from 8 am until noon. We made fruit salad in the morning from papaya, strawberries, apples, and bananas topped with lúcuma yogurt and molasses. We also started boiling purple corn over the campfire in the back of the house so that we could make “purple mass.” aka mazamora.

Adam skipped the morning exercise to be one small component of a 400 meter water tube. At 6:40am he helped load up a pedal powered cart that has a rectangular carrying area of approximately 2 meters by 1 meter and a railing in the Z direction (out of the ground) about a foot high. 6 buckets, 2 jerry cans, and 1 50 gallon drum went on their. Empty. To the watering hole which happened to be going today. The mission is to bring enough water for the construction project that is going on on our host´s daughter´s land. The daughter is a nun in Chile and the nunnery is apparently financing the construction of a brick and concrete home on her land but for her mother to live in since her current home has cracked corners.

The tube of water ended up performing efficiently enough for a couple hours. 3 trips and the construction site´s speaker declared us free to help him build columns. Juan stuck up for our stomachs and let him know we had yet to breakfast. And breakfast was delicious (see first paragraph of this entry). Then we headed back out to work on the columns. With only four people working, only of two of which have extensive experience in construction, work goes quite slowly. Four column molds are being set and corners of brick are being laid. From then till 3:30pm the site is a paced effort to put watery concrete down makeshift molds. The workers claim to have a decent amount of ethic and dedication to the structural engineering specs that are given, but also say they have the plans memorized and don´t need to look column sizes up. Interesting, considering there is over 20 columns – but maybe they are all the same.

Adam mixes concrete for a good while, picks nails out of boards transports sand, gravel and cement from their dispersed location. Water had been brought in earlier by some very nice people, so we doused the water cement ratio like as if these guys had never taken 1.035. Adam made a valiant effort at discussing how the water cement ratio governs the strength of the concrete and they laughed saying the water was no matter and to keep putting more in since it made it easier to pour. The water does seep out through the slits between the boards of the column boards, so maybe not that big of a deal – minus the cement that is carried out with the water.

At around 4pm, Adam regroups with Brooke to help Yubi, one of our younger students, critique her video and do some basic stitching of clips. Her video is based on a true story of thieves being buried alive in Señor de Luren. Interesting, but she could have been more creative with the angle her shots took.

From there we discuss how to improve our encuestas. We decide to at least get some surveys done to find out what percentage of people have heard of our class. As expected, few have, except for those who live near the schoolhouse or are really good friends with a current student. And then we head off to pay another visit to the internet spot where Adam left his USB. Still no luck, but they say come back tomorrow morning and we might be able to hook you up.

Cool. Adam heads home to join the rest for dinner.. Heated up Estufado de Pollo con arroz, quaker and té de cocoa, mazamora for desert, and life is.


4 August 2009, Tuesday

This morning we ran through the farms. Rows and rows, squares next to squares, and water running through it. There was a line of workers shooting straight as an arrow through one of the green patches that we passed, hunched over the land. We stopped in at a soccer field for a couple of sprints. We raced each other home (surprise, who won?), and stopped in at breakfast for some delicious leftovers from yesterday's lunch.

Afterwards we split up. One into Ica for a meeting with MCLCP to obtain statistics about the town, and another to stay at home, help cook lunch, look after Ariana, and clean the dishes. Possibly write up the worksheets for Thursday if family life ceased to buzz in their ear.

On the homefront, there was much playing with Ariana at the park. To get out of the way of the drinking Señor Lopez who was chopping apart the front of the house for some strange maintenance reasoning, we whisked ourselves away to the land of swingsets and slides. We met up with the some kids who were in the middle of the tutoring that happens in the Casita on every weekday during the morning and sometimes in the afternoon. There were three kids inside who were reading and doing puzzles together. Apparently, an Aportes truck had been spotted earlier so maybe there was more adult help present before I arrived.

Afterwards, I helped cook lunch while our abuelita worried herself to a tremor. She had been running around the entire time to prepare refreshments for Señor Lopez, take care of getting lunch ready for hungry, working men, and also fussing over the cleanliness of the house. She sat down in the kitchen and gave us orders which were followed dutifully as one reads a very important book. Line by line, syllable by syllable.

Beans. Rice. Potatoes. Onions. Garlic. Tomatoes. All mixed together to make guiso de pollo. So delicious. After the women had finished eating in the kitchen and cleaning the dishes, we set out to test our communication survey. It is concerned with how the community talks amongst themselves. What formal organization exists? And how does word spread throughout the neighborhood? The answers we get here are particularly mundane, but I'm not entirely sure what we were expecting. News travels by mouth. There are three organizations here as far as we know. Junta Directiva to which we've already been introduced, Vaso de Leche which is government funded, and a grupo de mujeres.Our grandma doesn't really care too much about local news, let alone international news.

Later, I went to check on one of our students who hadn't shown up in awhile. Then we met back to up to do some debriefing and to have lunch. Adam has managed to get some leads on where we can get more information about our small village. He also managed to shoot out some e-mails and bike around in the open fresh air for a few hours. Thankfully he returned with strawberries, water, and contact solution. Then we split up again into our traditional roles of man and woman. Adam left to go work on a construction site. I was on my way to go grab some quaker and tea from the local tienda when I came across a really-big-smile-inducing-sight: our students with props and cameras filming their movies. They had made paper wings for one story. Found fake guns for the story about robbers. They had their storyboards out and ready to consult and were doing takes one by one. I even got the honor of being in one of the movies! During the recording, we found out just how difficult it is to record on the streets without a stage or sound equipment. The music next door was blaring, neighbor's were cheering around a cock fight, and later there was an accidental dog fight that resulted in a dead puppy. It's hard to tear two dogs apart when one is set on ripping out the other's jugular.

In Ica, Adam spent the day shooting the breeze with friends from the university of Ica and French architects who had taken the day off to experimentally mix a couple outlandish Peruvian varietes of local alcohol. There was mazamora alcohol, banana alcohol, lúcuma wine, and best of all agarrobina liquor made from the famous amazonian tree sap. Oh, and did I mention the Argentinian steaks we had imported for the event?

En serio, Adam´s first stop was the internet café in La Tinguiña where Adam had absentmindedly left a USB drive with some decently important info on it. It was not there and they had seen nothing of it. Damn Adam´s mind full of thoughts much more important than some silly USB. Time we got us a new partner. They say the people who came in after us were mostly kids from the neighborhood who are regulars, and they will see what detective work they can pull off with no more than real-life training.

Next stop is Mesa de Concertación de la Lucha Contra la Pobreza (MCLCP). None of the know-it-alls are there, just the secretary, but she´s decently helpful with ideas of who to talk to. Also happened to be a freelance engineering consultant stop by who was in the middle of evaluating a project for a retaining wall in Caserío Manco Cápac where we are living. Funny story when she shows Adam the pictures of the planned site, and he laughs. The town is asking for a retaining wall to be built in a small canal with water from the Achiranah river that happens to be located right outside our schoolhouse. Adam has some fun explaining why he thinks the retaining wall makes no sense since the canal is so small and would be little left, but maybe a bit of concrete to simply make the canal a bit more permanent might make sense. We talk some engineering, some mix proportions and after a few bottles of agarrobina liquor we exchange emails and split off our seperate ways.

Adam heads to Defensa Civil, or the INDECI, office. The director isn´t there till tomorrow. Ok, see you then. Off to Aportes, know one there either. PNUD? Neither. Watch? 1pm. Ahhh...almuerzo, everyone around here goes out to eat for lunch for a couple hours
So Adam opts for the internet. The one hour variety turns into an hour and a half marathon. Many emails are sent, many translated from english to spanish and vice versa. We are solicitiing help and ideas for our research project from more knowledgeable ones at MIT and UNICA, thanking many contacts down here for helping us choose our community, inviting these contacts to our final video screening event on a date that is not yet known exactly, and asking select awesome people if they would be interested in being guest speakers at upcoming classes with the kids.

From there Adam heads over to Aportes to hang out with Yngrid for awhile. She flutters around and lands on a folder of word docs that she think might apply to the research they have already done on Señor de Luren. She doesn´t find much but tells us she will let us know when she talks to the engineers in the office who have kept track of that side of work a bit more. Hernán tells Adam that he will be around within 15 mins so Adam go wait for him at the UN office. He doesn´t show up for 30 mins so Adam gives him a call again. 15 more mins he says. Aight, let´s talk tomorrow buddy. He´s hungry. And its 3pm. And back home there is def some delicious homemade segundo with a tasty sopa. On the way out he picks up fresas and water. Sunglasses, mochila, bike – check. Heads home.

We also chatted with Jhimmy and Gloria about Viña Tacama, NGOs, and working in the farms one day. They sort of laughed at the idea that we would talk to the owner of the Viña, but said they liked our spirit of adventure and would be into setting us up with an initial meeting. Jhimmy actually has a more posh/skilled job in the winery as opposed to working in the farms, so he is our in.

After dinner, we all passed out. Man, it's tiring to be a Peruvian.


3 August 2009, Monday

We promised to be at the park by 6:45. But we weren't. We were late. The morning was too cold, and our eyes were too heavy from sleep. When I was younger, my grandma used to tell me stories about a sand man who would make rounds like Santa Claus from house to house. His job was to sprinkle sand on all the little children's eyes so that they could go to bed. That doesn't sound so pleasant now, as our eyes suffer from chronic sand-itis. It's what you get when you live in a desert and bike around. But in the end, we went running. Just 15 minutes late. Each day we eliminate a new direction, run on a new street, and find new places. My legs are tiring a little bit each day... less muscle, less energy. This is the first time either of us have run consecutively for more than 3 days in a long time, if ever. No one is complaining though, believe me.

We hit up the direction toward the mountains, where El Molino is rumored to be. The morning is misty, like running through clouds. There are tractors and trucks and people hustling through the streets, each at their own perspective speeds. It's a little abnormal to see so much activity this early. We've seen people in fields at this time of morning or waiting on the sides of roads on their way to work, but nothing so complicated as this dance. Then we remember what Juan told us yesterday (Just a reminder to those keeping track, Juan is our adopted family brother. Important character, take note), “There is going to be a big harvest tomorrow morning. People are going to be taking up all the good stuff.” In my head that is what he said because he was speaking Spanish, and Adam was too busy to translate that one for me.

We slipped past the mountain, onto the other side to gaze upon the enigmatic cross at its crest. We hope to someday conquer its slope when we don't have anything on the agenda. We've been told that there is a procession to the top during the fiesta of the crosses every year. After returning to the other side of the spiny purple majesties, we throw down the usual exercises at the playground with some muscles that Adam likes to list off rapidly that I never cared to learn in anatomy class. I try to stick to the basics like sit ups and push ups. Then I g... Woah!! Where is Pirata? Our furry friend didn't accompany us on this grand adventure because he was happily occupied with Juan in the fields all day. Weird.

When I snap out of my endorphin high, Adam is suddenly frying onions up with some tomatoes and ... apples? He smiles proudly of his unique peruvian cooking accomplishment. Unfortunately no one at the table is brave enough to try his concoction except for me. It was delicious. Since Juan and Edwin are at work, it is just us, Marcy the grandma, and little Ariana who has just woken up from her beauty slumber.

Although we attempted our hand at brainstorming and planning for the day, we were pleasantly interrupted by our family going out on a walk to the local big tienda. Ariana looked more like she wanted to play than walk, so we offered to take some Soles to the store for them ad return with milk and honey. 1 kilo onions. 1 kilo tomatoes. 5 soles of chicken meat thing stuff. Two stores later, and a heartbeat early, we return with all of that plus a little bag of laundry detergent that has the smell of “baby.” Apparently, it's good. Or so we're told.

I hit up the cooking duties with Edwin while Adam does laundry. I am slow at peeling potatoes, and there are a lot of clothes to be washed. By the time we've finished, we're basically new people. I cook over a wood burning stove for the first time, peel a chicken of its skin, and manage to do it all without running water. The result is pollo saltado (sautéed onions, tomatoes, and chicken in a spicy sauce mixed together with big fat home-made french fries with a side of rice). Of course, there is also soup to start off our lunching. And by the time we're finished, it's basically 3pm. We all stare at the clock on the wall with astonishment for approximately 30 minutes, when we leave for our errands.

Being a bike again is like finding new legs. Like putting on a fresh pair. Only, the rain and weather has maltreated my poor bicicleta. I guess that's called negligence on my part. Let's blame the elements. First, we talk with the mama of Gloria. She is sitting pretty with Alison, chatting, so we decide to barge in and demand where their neighbor Julie is (say that yoo-lee). She happens to be a close contact who also works at the municipality where we hope to get maps of our new neighborhood. She isn't there, but grandmama Gloria calls her up. Then we hit up Pamela, who is no where to be found. Then The one person in our class that hasn't shown up since day one just check on her. 9 out of 10 sticking around isn't a bad persuasion rate. I give us A minuses.

Off to Tinguiña. Along the way we see something that appears to be a wedding. Many cars and a few people gathered around. Run our tires through some cement, watch some dogs copulate, run into Julie who gives us these maps that weren't as detailed as we imagined they'd be, and hit up an Internet cafe to send some e-mails for some consultation about our project and how to make sure we come back with all the right stuff. I am sitting on a log outside the house, along the drybed river where the community's trash goes. There are a lot of little flies and bothersome bugs that keep landing on me. What's more is that my environmental alarms are going off like nuts thinking about how this place never has a chance of clean water unless everyone here and upstream goes on a spring cleaning frenzy to take all the trash out. Even though, I don't know what sort of money and organization it would even possible take to get the trash from here to somewhere it could be treated. I guess you just have to think that this trash is going to soak through the water, into the soil, into the plants, and back into our mouths. A circle of life.

Upon our return, we are served two things. One is dinner. The other is news that the wedding we saw was actually a funeral. Oops.

What kind of communication happens here? How is the information about our class travelling? How much do these people really care about what's happening in their neighborhood or elsewhere in the world? How did our abuelita find out about something so far away so quickly? Who do they spend their time with? How far from the house do they typically venture out? As far as Nazca (two hours in bus) to their rented land. As far as Cañete to sell their daughter's land. As far as Ica to buy food for dinner, lunch, and breakfast? Outside their door to cut wood, nada más?

So we make up a survey to ask our family first and then would like to venture out to question throughout the streets. Until then, I think we will watch man on wire until the computer quits doing its job.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

My Flash Recovery

Sunday, August 2

Stay Pirata. Pirata, get out of my way! Leave the chickens alone, Pirata. Chew on this chunk of adobe, Pirata. Le tiré una piedra a Pirata y se entretuvo. Pirata doesn’t let you do pull-ups without sacrificing your shoes and lower legs to scratch posts. Pirata, sal de la clase! Quítate de aquí, Pirata! Pirata no nos deja ir solos a ningún lugar. Les vi a Uds dos corriendo con Pirata por la mañana. Pirata, deja al otro Pirata y sal de ahí!

Pirata, as earlier posts give away, is the most outgoing and protective of our 3 host dogs. He goes everywhere with us and eats rocks and adobe blocks in his free time. He gets in the face of any dog he sees on the street and will enter any room to follow us, even if it is our classroom and he is doing it for the 300th time. Because of him and because of Betsy, the little diabla next door, we have resorted to closing the front door of the classroom.

Running in the fresh of the farms this morning to the tune of 33 minutes and 46 seconds. 20 minutes of exercise on the jungle gym to top it off. Usual push-ups, ab workouts, pull-ups were supplemented by rookie appearances of adobe blocks as shoulder dumbbells, and old car tires loaded with rocks for bicep workouts.

Our first appointment of the day is as visitors to Juan´s church in the center of Ica at 10:30 am. This gives us time to wash a few shirts, make a to-do list and a shopping list, and have a breakfast of black lentils, rice, leftover drink of maíz tostado molido, bread and butter, as well as lechuga. As Da Vinci once said: “That was one of my favorite breakfasts yet.”

El Shaddai is Juan´s church, and it happens to be in a very nice part of town, nearby many of the NGOs and the United Nations office. It feels different finding ourselves there, without cameras (ok we brought a flipcam) doing real life instead of investigating and running around doing interviews. Its Christian and very modern in its style. Juan affectionately calls it: “Un escandolo, pura fiesta!” (Scandolous, all partying). Brooke says it familiar. Adam says the demographic of the church is interesting – all Peruvian run and made up of what seem to be many middle class to upper class residents of Ica. Juan is neither, but seems to have established himself as a leader within the church for his unabashed expression of his love for Jesus.

On the ride to church he used the analogy of a clogged gas filter to preach to the moto taxi driver. Later, over dinner he recounted how he has been fortunate enough to have debated religion with Peruvian leaders of all 12 religions present in the country. Bahaii is not one of them, and Adam would like it recorded that he has met with a Bahaii who claims they have a decent presence in this country. Anyways, Juan goes into depth about religion muchas veces. And watches preachers on TV all the time. No one else in the family joins in except the mom and dad sometimes with agreeing statements.

Church ran from 10:45am to 1:25pm. We split up with Juan to withdraw cash from downtown, as well as pick up 32 more AA batteries for the kids´ (ages 14-28) flipcams, make copies of a new storyboard example, update the blog, buy plaintains and milk for our family, and splurge on $1.30 worth of ice cream.

By the time we got back to Señor de Luren, where the classroom is, it was 3:20pm. Class started at 4pm so we set about setting everything up. Luz María next door needs to called out to open up the place since she holds the only key to the place. The TV needs to be borrowed from the house across the canal. The extension cord needs to be strung to another house across the canal. The table needs to be rearranged for TV viewing ease. The chairs need to be set out, as well as the tables for the computer for uploading and the TV. The video camera needs to be set up on a tripod to film the class. Today, we arrive early enough to set it up to catch students as they walk in the door. The white board needs to be filled with the schedule for the day and the homeworks for tomorrow. The printouts need to be set out for the kids to grab as they come in. Ok, so I understand real teachers are used to all this but for us it takes a bit of time, besides I actually don’t think teachers have to deal with borrowing all kinds of stuff before hand to make sure the class takes place.

It’s a good sign when you have students showing up early (i.e. within the first 10 mins past the set time). Especially if they show up earlier than they did last time. We had 4 students by 4:08pm. Its even cooler when you see one of those kids running to class with a new notebook. His name is Brahayan, and he is 14. Rocio shows up briefly to let us know she is in charge of caring for some visitors and has to run back and forth between the class and her house to make sure they are taken care of. Impressive. Jimmy, who didn´t show up last time, makes an entrance with last classes homework done in precise style. By 4:25pm we have 8 students, 1 we have yet to see past the intro class, and the other is taking her entrance exams to get into university.

Sundays must be good days, cuz the students seem to get more and more into critiquing each others´ work. Many brought notebooks and writing utensils to take notes. After catching everyone up to speed, we watch the interviews on history of their town that the students brought in. Amazyingly, many of them did a great job without even trying. One of them interviewed her Grandparents and accidentally aligned them both in the shot appropriately. More than that they were discussing the lack of reconstruction and the difference between before the earthquake and now. Apparently by accident the background was half brick from the new home built for them by an NGO and the other half temporary housing they still live in due to the small size of their NGO-donated home. Another films his great aunt who was one of the founders of the town. She discusses how the place came to be named Manco Cápac. She is very old. In the background is a clock that reads 10:25pm and ticks later as the video progresses. This clock sits on an old piece of furniture. Another interview frames a neighbor peering over his wooden fence as he discusses how the upper part of town invaded the lower part and took political control some 30 odd years ago. Turns out taking advantage of excluded groups occurs locally on some scale as well as on any other level of society.

From the interviews we move into introducing storyboarding. Storyboarding is basically rough planning for your video – a process which consists of drawing scenes as comic snapshots and explaining below details on the shot. This skill is especially useful when using the flipcams since it allows one to film an entire video in order since you have already planned everything out. We expect them to be normal people and take some time to get used to it – as in weeks or at least a couple classes. But they shatter our expectations. One in particular, Malu (Luz María), really keeps the storyboard discussion going by clarifying and answering questions while others seemed a bit confused by the connection between comics and videos. We later find out she studied art in college. She would be great at continuing a class like this.

Before we have finished explaining the two examples we have made for them, they are ready to do an example together on the board. Halfway through the example on the board and they are clamoring for pencils and paper to begin drawing and working on a story of their choosing. When the idea of groups is brought up as a possibility, they murmur for awhile and thirty seconds later the room rearranges and we have 4 groups of 2. 14 year old Brahayan and twentysome year old but married with kids Rocio work quietly together on a story of a witch interrupting a dinner in town and being beaten. Alison and Carlos tackle a video of how the park is being used by kids. Yubi and Jimmy decide to storyboard a story they had heard from their interview of a bunch of thieves being buried alive in the hole they had been using to stash local wealth. Malu and Cecilia drew out plans for a family that wants to adopt and ends up mistreating the kid in the end. One might say that Cecilia and Malu win the artistic award, but all the work was outta this world so it wouldn’t make sense from a scale/dial perspective. Actually all the storyboards were amazingly done from an aesthetic perspective. We heard one comment about not being able to draw, but it didn’t show through in the end. Rather, the result was one of colored sketches, ruler straightness, and even a one-point perspective drawing.

Fussing with their sketches, the students requested to stay later, and we ended up finishing 1.5 hours later than the scheduled time simply hanging out as they worked intensely. Impressed, we set the homework bar high and requested they also make another storyboard, this time about a typical day in the life of one of the partners and to also film one of them completely by next class (Thursday). By Saturday, both will be filmed, and this will mark the end of the “get to know your camera and have fun stage of the class.” From there we will test out our NGO evaluation idea, and see if they are into it.

After that we thank the TV and extension cord neighbors for letting us borrow their things and pack up for home. Dinner is waiting – pollo estofado, chicken tomatoey stew with potatotes and peas over rice and lettuce. Soup also with bread and tea to follow.

Tomorrow, Yubi, one of our students is interested in joining us on our morning run. Que chevere says Brooke, since she assumes she will no longer be the slowest in the group. We shall see.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Nunca Falta












1 August, Saturday

Sometimes in the mornings, I feel as though we might be sloths. By the time we have finally peeled ourselves from the sheets, the potatoes are already being boiled,the quaker is being heated, and our family is almost always wide awake. Except Ariana who usually hides under her covers asleep until later. Around 9am, Edwin arrives at the door from his security administration job. At night, the family eats dinner together with the television murmuring in the corner. Afterwards, Edwin has to leave for work and the family entertains his two year old daughter. When Adam is around, she plays with her fingernails and refuses to look him in the eyes or even talk. Otherwise, she is very vocal. Mostly to whine or tell people to get her things. Edwin is supposed to go to teach Karate at the casita around 9am, and we are supposed to go with him so we can be on our way to being black belts. Better to start now since it takes a minimum off 4.5 years to achieve it.



This morning we tried a drink of ground, toasted corn (maize tostado molido). It is totally delicious so we down about three cups each. Que rico, as our abuelita might say. In addition, we down the avocados from the Velarde astoHuawáu family with some bread. Since we are playing the class mostly by ear, depending on what the kids want to do, we are setting up our worksheets day by day. We have a bare skeleton of what we are going to do with fairly detailed assignments, but for the most part we are trying to play off their interests. So this means a lot of going into town to print and make copies for our class.

We were invited to lunch at the Velarde astoHuawáu at noon, so we rush back from La Tinguiña (largest town nearby complete with Internet Cafes and lots of cars). Lunch talk varies. We go from a miracle working child from the mountains, nearby dormant volcanoes, ancient tunnels that go from here to Pisco, and the typical farm work that goes on here. Apparently there is harvest on Monday and Tuesday (combined work of machine and man, sweeping over the fields to gather up the fruits of many months labor). We may attend depending on our schedule. More than anything, we just want to make sure that we aren't taking work from anyone.

We have to go back to Ica to make a final worksheet, find replacement batteries for our students, and hoard some oranges for back home. Tranquilo. The travel back forth will eventually add up so it might be a good idea to start planning out some worksheets for massive paper-sucking progress.

Thirty minutes before our class, we hustle over to Rocío's house to retrieve the television. There's only one outlet in our meeting place so we have to sacrifice light for being able to preview the videos. We set up some office hours, let the kids know that they can always stop by the house to get replacement batteries or jus talk, and inquire about good dates for the final showing of their final film. Then, the juicy part. We show their clips!! It is a very exciting moment to get to know their different styles. Some of them talked with the camera while others strategically set up to capture their daily transaction to purchase bread. More than anything, we got movies of the animals that they share their lives with. Dogs, chickens, canaries, cats, parrots, stuffed rabbits, and even guinea pigs. Some interesting footage arose from when a girl is inside a fairly nice house, says that now we'll go into the living room, and then opens the door. Her living room is no longer there because it collapsed in the earthquake, but there are still a few old sofas that are turned upside, exposed to the open air above. The videos are promising, but we'll see how they do with something more restrained.

Back at home, we encounter Juan who has just come back from fumigated the fields. Señor Lopez has still not returned from the land in Cañete that their daughter is trying to sell. We heat up some soup, rice, chicken, and fish for dinner and gather around the table to set our teeth in yet some more delicious food.

Tomorrow, we are teaching how to story board. Tonight, we have many things to accomplish before we sleep. In the car on the way back from Ica, we drove around the Viña Tacana. The sun was starting to sink behind the mountains, delineating the part where the sky meets the earth. The light made all the things on the ground, near the tires of our cab, seem sharp. Not close to everything, but definitely parts, of the project were illuminated in this moment. Not legible or tangible things, but a better sense surrounding our final product.



31 July, Friday



This morning was particularly cold, with clouds over the sun and frigid air permeating all cracks in any corner. Last night, we passed out early so our plans for today are to give the finishing touches to our curriculum. Adam helps out with breakfast while Brooke cleans up the room. The house has a main concrete floor that extends from the living room and down the hallways, but each individual room is connected straight to the earth. We tenderly call the hole in our ceiling the skylight. Thankfully, it is covered with plastic so that the morning mist doesn’t blanket us as we sleep. How much closer can you be to the free and open air while still sleeping under hand woven covers encompassed by four adobe walls? Our room is always a shelter from the afternoon heat, where the dirt remains cool on our feet. For this, we are thankful.

Marcela jokes that we should start to call her “abuelita” (little grandma) at breakfast where the garlic, onions, and tomatoes soak through our sandwiches. Quaker tops it all off, and our hands are warmed by our mugs by the time we leave breakfast. Between learning how to prepare papas rellena and preparing for our class at 4pm, we were booked. Papas rellenas are very time consuming because it involves boiling, peeling, mashing, rehashing, and then making little balls of mashed potatoes filled with spicy meat filling. Then the balls get dipped in egg and fried up so that they stick together. Of course, we recorded the entire process so that we could create a short film of our host family cooking. Eggs. Peppers. Potatoes. And at the very end, a shot of the finished meal with some commentary by Miss Brooke. “How delicious!” When we premiered it during class, it elicited many smiles. Ariana’s short appearance with her giggle and huge eyes caused the entire room to fall into a sigh of “que linda.” Glad it was a hit.

We dreamt a syllabus that highlighted objectives of our course, expectations from our students, and our proposed schedule and themes. Meanwhile, Adam blogged what might have been the longest continuous blogging session of our time here. It was well deserved considering the topic was our host family. Then, we ate papas rellenas.

Push. Push. Push. Pumping the bicycle to its every last drop up and over gravel roads and dirt speedbumps. Pirata the dog high tailing close behind, trying to keep up with the steady pace towards the printer in town. Since our rural community isn’t much up on its technology (i.e. internet and copy machines etc), we have to go into La Tinguiña to get our worksheets multiplied. Meanwhile, Brooke tranquilly edits the example video. Testing out different paces and angles. iMovie is painfully slow, but it’s the only things we’ve got.

During class, we have a total of ten people. We happen to also have ten flip cameras. Our age group is everything from 12 to 28, with a mix of 7 girls and 3 boys. The class almost lasts an hour, full of introductions, explanations, and questions. We’ve already distributed the cameras and homework for next time. Surprisingly smooth sailing. It seems like only the weekends will work for this group so we are going to look more into seeing how we can make Santa Rosa work into the equation. Pirata and a niña get dangerously close to our camera that is taping the reunion. Our new tripod is holding up well. In fact, it’s holding up the camera mostly.

Onto more serious things. Volleyball. Like, let’s bet on the game sort of volleyball. Like, let’s play so hard we have to sit out sort of volleyball. So we face-off against one another in what might have been the most intense game of my life. Given, I’ve played volleyball about.. 3 times, but still. When we arrived, Team 1 was up by two games in a 3 out of 5 competition. Brooke joined Team 1 who promptly then lost two games in a row. So we had our tie breaking moment, teeth-gritting, finger-crossing, hair-pulling, edge of your seat game. It ended up being 14-14 (trying to get to fifteen). Just as I thought we had lost, something strange and totally normal in volleyball happened. I wish I knew the rules, but apparently the other team celebrated preemptively. Oh, and then Team 1 won.

So then we wined, dined, and winded down.


30 July, Thursday

At 6am, the landscape is lit and there is Luz. The cold is strong, and she is waiting. We are expecting to go out with her to find the Presidenta of Vaso de Leche (a government subsidized program that aims to give milk to poor families with children). Today's mission: find the youthful. Gloria and Luz promise to lead us around today, instead bumbling around blindly by ourselves. However, we find out that this morning the milk was distributed extra early. Like 4am early. So that option is out; instead, we traipse along the streets with her to post around the three pueblitos. Strategically.

Basically, the rest of the day then consisted of translating curriculum, continuing to pasar la voz, learning how to cook guiso de coliflor, eating, eating, eating, and lunch.

Most important of our day was our late night reunion with Gloria and Luz where we knocked on doors, ceaselessly conversing and persuading young people to come to our info session tomorrow at four.

Now for logistics.


PS. Our new mascot, Pirata (an ironically friendly pit bull bulldog mix) went running with us this morning and accompanied us on all of our visits. Pirate cause he has a patch on his eye. Patch of dark hair, that is. Not a real one. Unfortunately. That'd be cool. Demonstrated here..

Good night.




29 July, Wednesday

Some of us don’t know the details of the early morning sunrise because they stayed in bed. Others of us crouched over a steaming hot, crackling pan of sweet potatoes on a makeshift stove. Both are sweet destinies. It’s a wood powered makeshift stove that our family uses to cook up oversized portions of food. It consists of a couple of bricks with rebar strategically placed atop, where the pots and pans sit. Underneath, the fire is roaring.

9am appointment with the Gloria Alejo-Escobar family to learn how to cook a typical Peruvian lunch time favorite: Tallarin Rojo con Papas a la Huancaina. Basically spaghetti with red sauce, potatoes reclining on some lettuce drizzled with delicious nacho cheese stuff. We arrive a little late because we end up knee-dip in discussion with our host family, but Gloria tells us that we shouldn’t worry since they are just starting to eat breakfast. She says 10 minutes max, so we go walking to pass time. From morning jogs, portions of the town are already well marked on GPS. There’s a large bodega (wine making place) owned by a large company on a large plot of land near by that seems interesting. To get there, all you need to do is follow the large adobe circumference of a wall. The towering wall has fallen in some areas, but many parts of it are topped off with bits and pieces of broken glass bottles to deter intruders. Where there are piles of adobe instead of wall, the holes have been covered up with barbed wire. In addition to that, there are towers filled with slow moving security guards, situated on the outskirts of the sprawling grape kingdom.

Why such tight barriers? The grape fields were bought from local farmers by a large company who then consolidated all the land for big business. Now the farmers who used to own the land toil as hired-hands. There’s a lot to be said on this topic. Poor farmers? Big bad business? Progress? More efficiency?

So, on an economic level this sort of looks like agricultural industrialization straight out an international development text book. Insert technology or big business, form two sectors. Now there’s a sustenance sector and there’s the capital sector. What used to be individuals on farms turns into a more efficient machine so that all the surplus labor gets sent to the cities. This much is typical. On a more microscopic level, you start to consider the human rights aspect of the wage. The wages are not as high as they could be compared to the wages of the head boss. Can they be making more money in a city? And if they can, why don’t they move there? Maybe it’s the comfort of the countryside, the inertia needed to get away, or something more ingrained… Then you start to think about progress, efficiency, and creative destruction. Is this change better for a larger group of people than just the farmers? Would these questions make more sense of the crop was for food and not for making wines? Finally, if efficiency is at stake, then there are sure to be fertilizers and irrigation involved which makes you sort of think about the environmental impact of homogenized crops. Capitalist take over? The ruin of a small, rural area? These are all surface thoughts though, and we’ve yet to really think the moral implications through.

Needless to say, we returned quite late to Gloria’s house. Brooke got to learn how to cook, scuttling about while trying to discern orders being joyfully shouted in Spanish. “Pelar! Pelar!” Uhhhh. Peel this potato? ¡Sí sí! Ingredients galore while Alex and Adam chatted away with some quality family who was visiting from Lima. The music blasted through the house, wafting along with the smells from stove tops. The ladies joked about how they wanted to have tall, blonde sons like them American boys. It was quite useful to have six-foot-flat Adam for setting up shade shelters to eat underneath. Otherwise, it would just be grandma with a large stick trying to reach up into the rafters to balance the shade. Alex looks overwhelmed by his mountain-sized plate. Before heading out to Lima later today, he’s gotta get his fair fill of home-made Peruvian cooking. And we chat and chat and chat. Even in gossip, we hardly ever heard an ill-word on any one in the neighborhood. The optimism and resilience of the community here is almost tangible.

Afterwards, we say good bye to Alex who is heading North for the waves to take him away. I wish that we could all be California giiiiirls, a la Beach Boys style. Gracías por todo, Alejandro y Lindsay! Oh yeah, before leaving, Alex plays with the guinea pigs. They’re not quite big enough to be eaten yet, but we’re promised Sunday cuy. Woah.

We have a short meeting with the community to do some final fact-checking. What age group is going to be best? What time will our introduction meeting be? Gloria, Luz, Alison, and Pamela all give us a consultation in their area of expertise: the pueblito. Immediately after, we have to run off to dinner which our host mom made for us: beans, rice, and chicken. It is exceptionally delicious, and we are jealous of Edwin and Jose for getting to eat like this everyday. So we tell them how lucky they are, but instead of saying “oh yes, we know,” they just giggle as men oftentimes giggle. This is how we discovered that Edwin had actually made dinner tonight. In fact, everyone in the family cooks. Apparently, most Peruvians start to hang on their mother’s skirts in the kitchen by age 12. From there, they learn all the invaluable secrets of cooking trade that makes us grovel and salivate.

After a few jokes and trying to soften up Adriana (age 2), we retire to the cave to complete our daily tasks. Which, pleasantly includes drawing posters to post around the community. Our resident artist does that, of course. And he’s darn good at it.

28 July, Tuesday

After drawing some church exteriors in Ica, whilst waiting for Alex R. to arrive on the scene, we return to our new humble abode by bike. We get comfortable, chat with the family (which seems to grow larger every time we turn around. There are daughters from Lima, visitors, etc), and then do the momentous task of LAUNDRY.

More food. More chatting with families, but this time next door. And all topped off by walking around to know the place. The end.



27 July, Monday

We were adopted today. Official integrantes of the familia Lopez.

But that was later in the day.

This morning we had arranged to come over in the afternoon. Till then we tried our best to make good use of our time in San Clemente. Sara is/was/will forever be precisely that. She is the presidenta of the Cruz Roja/Arquitectos de la Emergencia Vivienda construction project in Santa Rosa.

She is very sad that we have decided to use Nueva Esperanza as our main site for work, and we discuss the possibilities of doing work in both towns. We make it clear that the only way this could have a chance of working is if there exist at least a couple very ambitious and responsible people within the community who have the time to basically run the class in Santa Rosa and would actually be coming to see our first couple classes in Nueva Esperanza to see how they might start something in Santa Rosa, and we would come by when we could to help out with the class.

Though this idea seems interesting to us off the bat, it intuitively seems to be very difficult simply because of real life. It would be interesting to have people from multiple communities working together on the project together and having the classes taught as much as possible by locals, but the whole transport thing back and forth and lack of direct accountability established if we were to leave cameras behind in both places, etc seems a bit overwhelming. Not to mention, we hope to spend some time getting to know the community we are staying in and that is much more difficult to do if you are bouncing back and forth with a 1.5 hour commute one way.

But its possible, and two 20 year old girls show us around a bit. They claim to be very willing to make the project work and be those interested teachers. That makes solid ruling-out of the two community option for the time being so we agree to play it by ear a little bit.

Sara seems to be happier – I hope we are not giving them false hopes because we would really prefer to not leave enemies behind even if it is due to such a small miscommunication.

After this we packed all our stuff up and headed for the bus pick-up spot. Time to meet our family in Manco Cápac, a caserío of La Tinguiña, a suburb of Ica. Manco Cápac is one of three caseríos in which we will be working. Three clusters of homes very close to each other that they are seeminlgy the same pueblo. Kinda intriguing how that separation has developed rather than a single community, maybe we can learn more about that over the span of the next month.

Our new place is approximately 30 mins by car outside of Ica. We veer off the paved road to follow some dirt paths through vast farmlands full of at least corn, grapes, potatoes, and sweet yams. Gloria, a serious leader from the same caserío escorts us to our new home that is placed conveiently near where we will be holding our classes – La Casa de Las Sonrisas, “the house of smiles” which is a multipurpose community gathering center.

Outside of our new house we find Juan. He is feeding the dogs with what looks like the scraps from lunch preparation. He is also tossing out the dishwater into the dry channel outside their front door. This channel is a man-reinforced, dry riverbed called la Achirana. Juan greets us warmly. “Mamá, ven! Ya vinieron los nuevos integrantes de la familia!” (Mama, come! The new family members are here!)

Mama is named Marcela and she came from the sierra highlands of Huancavélica. They have lived in their current location for around 50 years. Juan is 39. Marcela speaks spanish with a cadence of a native Quechua speaker – a native tongue.

They immediately shoo us iinto the house and drop everything to help us get our stuff into the nice room they have set up for us. The room has a dirt floor and adobe walls painted white. Two large beds are nicely made up, and even yet the room has space for a small desk, two chairs, and room to set our things down.

The walls are covered in homemade art – a classic pencil sketch of fruit and pot, a roaring robot lion with an oversized 4-pack, a landscape painted scene with really nice evergreen trees, a butcher advertisement, a ad for a workshop on the Applied Sciences of Sport, an ad for a workshop on Metaphysical Philosophy, Two 8.5 x 11 sheets with hand copied bible verses, a calendar from the Alps, a yellow plastic clock that is either 1 hour fast or 23 hours slow, a hand-drawn DragonBall Z character with bright yellow hair and tattoos, and a Good Year 2000 calendar rocking a blue Lamborghini. Someone´s an artist around here.

After getting settled in they bring out a bowl of dried plums. Thirty minutes later into the converstation and a son-in-law arrives with a hat, glasses, little girl, and pecans. Edwin se llama. His daughter of 2 years is named Ariana. She is very shy and serious around strangers. Maricela took the bag of pecans into the kitchen. 30 seconds later a bowl of pecans was in front of us. Along with bananas.

The rest of the day is going to be a matter of us simply being around to get to know our new family. Hang out with them. Chill. Help out wherever we can. Play with the kids. (1 of Juan´s 8 siblings lives nearby and showed up with his wife and two boys: Osmar (4) and Jairen (2)). Adam pulls out a notebook to attempt a sketch of a particularly cracked portion of the adobe walls, and the kids are fascinated. Getting the hint, we pull out some pens, some markers and some sketch notebooks and hand them to the kids. Jairen prefers to eat and run around – preferring to explore his own world. Osmar and Ariana on the other hand immediately begin to cover the pages with pictures. Osmar draws a niña and colors her purple. Next he tries his hand at drawing a page full of different animals. Then he tries to copy the character on the cover of a book sitting on the table. He really likes to draw heads and torsos with legs originating from awkward places. On each page he signs his name in large cursive letters. Ariana prefers the scribble-on-each-page-for-as-many-pages-as-possible technique.

Their house is one of the very few homes made of adobe that stayed in tact through the earthquake. Without prompting on our part, they began to describe their experience with the earthquake and how each of them had reacted. Through the collaborative recounting of the event we received a very good idea for the different personalities in the family. Juan is a very religious evangelical as of 7 years ago after a radical conversion. Juan believes God miraculously saved the house from falling onto his family who was inside a the time. The rest of the family is Catholic. The father did very well for the family for sometime working on their farm. Then the big businesses created a market for agriculture that smaller farmers could no longer compete with. The farm was sold, and he slowly wasted the money trying to find something to soothe his loss of profession. He would come home drunk and beat Marcela while she was pregnant.

After years of this, the older siblings decided Marcela should separate from him. Señor Lopez as the family calls him still has a bed and a small room in the back where he sleeps. In fact, he walks in later that night. He has white hair, one droopy eye, two droopy shoulders and a loud voice. He also welcomes us very warmly to his home, the home he designed. He believes the home lasted the earthquake because he watched the construction workers carefully to ensure that the job was well done. He also thinks God kept the house in tact so that he could receive us as visitors in his home.

What a great family. After helping clean up after a dinner of small brown beans, rice and fried fish we head off to bed with our heads spinning; intoxicated with warm conversation, children sounds, and homecooked food. We offer to help with breakfast prep the next morning and they seem to be more than pleased to open us up to their daily activities. 6 am they start the fire and quaker for breakfast and by 6:30 they will start frying the sweet yams. We are very glad that our family cooks on an open fire (they also have a gas stove they use) and makes quaker in the mornings. And they raise cuyes (guinea pigs), and ducks, for themselves and to sell. Before the large dairy farmers moved in they had 8 cows, 48 goats, and a few pigs. They now use that pen space for a home garden with vegetables and the cuy-fattening alfalfa. Below is a picture of our soon to be DINNER!!